Pin it The smell of smoked haddock poaching in milk used to drift through my tiny flat every Sunday evening, back when I lived near the coast and could get fillets still cold from the morning catch. I'd stand at the stove, stirring rice in slow circles, watching the grains turn glossy and plump. There was something meditative about it, the rhythm of adding stock, stirring, waiting. My neighbor once knocked to ask if I was cooking fish pie, and I laughed because this was so much better. It became my quiet ritual, the dish I made when I needed to feel grounded.
I made this for my sister after she moved back from London, exhausted and homesick for proper fish. She sat at my kitchen counter with a glass of wine, watching me stir, and by the time I folded in the haddock she was already reaching for a spoon to taste. We ate it straight from the pan, standing up, talking about nothing and everything. She still texts me sometimes asking if I remember that night, and I always do.
Ingredients
- Smoked haddock fillets: Look for undyed fillets, the natural pale gold ones, because the neon yellow kind are too salty and the smoke flavor can be harsh.
- Whole milk: This poaches the fish gently and becomes part of your risotto base, so don't skimp and use something watery.
- Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pan so the rice cooks evenly and you don't shock it with cold liquid.
- Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Arborio is easier to find, but Carnaroli holds its shape better and gives you a slightly firmer bite.
- Onion, garlic, and leek: The leek adds a sweet, delicate flavor that doesn't fight with the fish, and using just the white part keeps it tender.
- Butter and olive oil: The oil stops the butter from burning, and the butter gives you that silky, rich finish you want in a proper risotto.
- Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated melts into the rice and adds a salty umami depth that ties everything together.
- Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: These brighten the dish at the end and cut through the creaminess with a fresh, herbal note.
- Black pepper and sea salt: The haddock and Parmesan are already salty, so taste before you add more salt or you'll overdo it.
Instructions
- Poach the haddock:
- Slide the fillets into a pan of milk and bring it to a bare simmer, just tiny bubbles around the edge. Let them cook gently for 5 to 7 minutes until the flesh flakes easily, then lift them out and set aside, keeping that milky goodness for later.
- Start the soffritto:
- Warm the oil and butter in a wide pan, then add the onion, leek, and garlic, stirring until they turn soft and translucent. You want them sweet and fragrant, not browned.
- Toast the rice:
- Tip in the rice and stir it around for a minute or two until the edges go see-through. This step locks in the starch and helps the grains stay firm.
- Add the poaching milk:
- Pour in all that reserved milk and stir until the rice drinks it up. It'll look soupy at first, then suddenly thicken.
- Ladle in the stock:
- Add the hot stock one scoop at a time, stirring often and waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding more. This takes patience, about 20 minutes, but it's what makes risotto creamy without cream.
- Fold in the fish and finish:
- When the rice is tender but still has a little bite, gently stir in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and add a final knob of butter if you're feeling indulgent.
- Rest and serve:
- Take it off the heat, cover the pan, and let it sit for 2 minutes. This lets the flavors settle and the rice relax into perfect creaminess.
Pin it The first time I served this to friends, one of them said it tasted like the sea and the countryside had a conversation. I'd never thought of it that way, but she was right. It's smoky and earthy, creamy and bright, and somehow it feels like both a hug and an adventure. We finished two bottles of wine that night and scraped the pan clean.
Choosing Your Fish
Undyed smoked haddock is worth hunting down because it tastes cleaner and less aggressively salty than the bright yellow kind. If you can only find dyed, soak it in cold water for 20 minutes before poaching to mellow the intensity. I've also made this with smoked cod or even hot-smoked trout, and both work beautifully, though trout makes it richer and a little more decadent. Just make sure whatever you use is skinless and boneless, because picking through bones while you're trying to stir risotto is nobody's idea of fun.
Getting the Texture Right
Risotto should flow slowly across the plate when you spoon it out, not sit in a stiff mound or spread like soup. I learned this the hard way after making it too thick one night and watching my guests politely chew through what was basically savory rice porridge. The trick is to keep tasting toward the end and adding stock in small splashes until the rice is creamy and loose but the grains still have a tiny bit of firmness in the center. If you overshoot and it gets too loose, just let it sit off the heat for a minute and it'll tighten up naturally.
Serving and Pairing
This risotto is rich enough to stand alone, but a simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil on the side makes it feel like a proper meal. I like to serve it in wide, shallow bowls so you can see the flakes of fish and the flecks of parsley scattered through the creamy rice. A crisp white wine, something like Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling, cuts through the richness and picks up the smoky notes without overwhelming the delicate haddock.
- Finish each bowl with a tiny grating of extra lemon zest and a crack of black pepper right before serving.
- If you have any left over, it reheats surprisingly well with a splash of stock stirred in over low heat.
- Don't skip the resting step at the end, it really does make the texture silkier and more cohesive.
Pin it There's something quietly satisfying about pulling off a good risotto, the way it rewards your patience with that creamy, comforting texture. This one, with its gentle smokiness and bright finish, has become the dish I make when I want to feel like I've really cooked, and every time, it delivers.
Recipe FAQs
- → Can I use fresh haddock instead of smoked?
Yes, but you'll lose the distinctive smoky flavor. Consider adding a pinch of smoked paprika to compensate for the missing depth.
- → What type of rice works best for this dish?
Arborio or Carnaroli rice are ideal as they release starch during cooking, creating the signature creamy texture while maintaining a slight bite.
- → Can I prepare this dish in advance?
Risotto is best served immediately, but you can poach the haddock and prep vegetables ahead. Cook the rice just before serving for optimal texture.
- → How do I know when the risotto is done?
The rice should be creamy and flow slightly when plated, with grains that are tender but still have a slight firmness in the center (al dente).
- → What can I substitute for fish stock?
Vegetable stock works well and is already included as an option. Chicken stock can also be used, though it will alter the seafood focus slightly.
- → How should I store leftovers?
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Reheat gently with a splash of stock or milk to restore creaminess.